The WhatsApp profile picture of Imanol Harinordoquy is a mugshot of Darth Vader and, as I find out towards the end of our rendezvous in a Parisian café, his ringtone is The Imperial March.

When Pip Durell, founder of the London-based brand With Nothing Underneath, designed her first shirt, she referenced a men’s style that she already owned. “I quite literally cut it up,” she ...